Preseason and Week One

By Enkare Wild

Introduction

Remote, raw and rarely visited, the Axum Flats sit in the heart of the northern Red Sea — a chain of uninhabited islands and reef systems scattered off the Eritrean coast. For years they’ve whispered possibility: untouched saltwater flats where Giant Trevally, permit, and triggerfish roam undisturbed.
In early 2025, after months of plotting and preparation, we finally mounted the first full exploratory fly fishing season here. This is the story of that first push, of sand, dust, sweat, logistics, and the first fish ever landed on the Axum Flats.

*[Photo: Sunrise over the Axum Flats camp, Red Sea]*

Preseason: Building the Impossible

After a busy guiding stint in Cameroon with African Waters, I had little time back in Kenya before heading north for our first exploratory season with clients. Anticipation ran high, months of planning, endless lists, and an uncomfortable number of WhatsApp groups had led to this. For the first time, we’d finally get boots on the ground and lines in the water to test the Axum Flats’ true potential.

Each week would host a maximum of six clients across six fishing days. To keep costs sensible, we’d operate lean — just one guide. And if you’re going to pick one, it may as well be Oliver Santoro: unflappable, relentlessly fishy, and capable of surviving on black coffee and reef rash.

With the green light from African Waters, I rang Ollie and asked if he fancied joining this new venture. He didn’t hesitate.

The plan was to rendezvous in Kenya, collect the remaining kit, and, along with friends Belly and Dom, haul it all to Eritrea. They’d kindly offered to help move the mess tent and custom-built living quarters — gear that simply couldn’t be sourced locally. The tents were designed in Kenya for life on an uninhabited Red Sea island: 90% mesh for breathability, strong frames, and just enough space to feel comfortable.

*[Photo: Custom mesh tents designed in Kenya for the Axum Flats camp]*

After collecting Ollie from the airport, we spent a frantic day assembling gear. By morning, the scale of what we were about to attempt began to sink in, no one had ever done anything quite like this here before. Two days later, 1,600 kilograms of excess baggage was checked to Asmara.

Upon arrival, our partners met us and, after a brief supply run in town, we set off for the coast. The following days were a blur of tent poles, bolts, ropes, and salt. Each evening we’d collapse into the sand, staring at the sea that would soon define our days. Only on the final night did it truly sink in, we’d built a fully functioning fishing camp on an uninhabited island in the middle of the Red Sea. Many had said it couldn’t be done. Yet, somehow, it had been.

*[Photo: Camp taking shape on the island – the first of its kind in the Red Sea]*

During setup we also managed to get a few days on the water. By this stage I’d only scratched the surface of the fishery, but Ollie, despite being the head guide in sudan, and having spent many years working those flats needed to re-acquaint himself with this coast. On our first proper day we saw over fifteen Giant Trevally on the flats. Ollie, ever the optimist, cast a 9-weight at two of them, fish that thoroughly deserved a 12. A classic “F** around, find out”* moment: both promptly snapped him off. The laughter that followed set the tone for the week.

I managed to land a smaller GT and a medium-sized permit, while Dom added a GT and a grouper from the shore. That evening, we jigged up a kingfish for dinner, which became ceviche with lemon and soy. A fine first meal to christen camp life.

Week One: The First Clients Arrive

The following day our first clients landed — Brian, Fergus, and Jens. The air buzzed with excitement. After months of theory, this was it: time to see what the Axum Flats could truly produce.

Day 1 – The First GT Landed on the Axum Flats

We set off for one of the larger islands, a mix of shallow sandy flats, mottled reef, and rocky drop-offs. The 25-minute run from base camp revealed water so clear it looked artificial. Upon arrival we split into two groups: Jens and Fergus with me; Brian with Ollie.

Walking the sand flat, we reached a rocky point where current pushed hard around the edge, the perfect ambush spot for predators. Peering over the edge, we spotted six or seven GTs circling below. Fergus made a cracking cast; the fish lit up but somehow missed. A bluefin trevally charged next and missed too. “Again,” I told him. He recast, kept the rod low, and stripped long. Three strips in, the fly vanished in a boil of white water. Mayhem. I scrambled down the rocks and tailed our first ever client-caught GT from the Axum Flats. What a moment.

*[Photo: The first client-landed GT from the Axum Flats*

We continued round the island. Brian, “Bommy Bashing King,” collected a few reef species from shore, while Fergus soon found himself locked to another big GT. The fish inhaled his NYAP, turned seaward and, despite a locked drag, reached the drop-off and cut him off.

Later we re-grouped with Ollie and Jens, who’d spotted a large permit but couldn’t get a cast in. That set our hearts racing, fourteen permit seen in total that day. We returned to camp buzzing, G&Ts in hand, the sunset washing over a perfect first day.

Day 2 – The Ones That Got Away

Dawn on the Axum Flats is all soft light and slow sounds, waves tapping the shore and a gas burner heating traditional Eritrean coffee. Breakfast was homemade granola, eggs, and Eritrean flatbread, before loading the boat for two nearby islands: morning on one, afternoon on the other.

I took Brian while Ollie guided Jens and Fergus. The morning was quiet, but when we regrouped, Ollie and Jens were still half-stunned. They’d tracked a monster GT across the flats, one of the biggest either had seen. It followed their fly right to the leader, then ghosted away, leaving adrenaline and silence behind.

At the next island, Brian and I took to the bommies, pulling in a collection of small emperors and grouper while Jens and Fergus hit the flats. Within minutes came shouting, Ollie photographing something on the beach, then more cheering. They’d landed a small permit, followed minutes later by a GT. Back-to-back. Later, Ollie showed photos of another nice grouper and two GTs that wouldn’t commit. The fish were there…

Day 3 – Sharks, Giants, and Close Calls

We headed for one of the larger islands. I paired with Fergus while Ollie guided Brian and Jens.

Early on, Fergus landed a fine grouper from the flats, a bright start. Then came a small reef shark cruising the shallows. “Go on then,” I said. The first cast drew a lazy follow; the second an aggressive eat. “Set! Set!” I yelled as the fish tore for the drop-off. I waded in, clearing weed from the line, and after a quick fight we landed it cleanly. Hook set perfectly in the scissors.

Black Tip Shark on Fly - Safely Released

Ten minutes later, two enormous GTs, both well over the metre mark — appeared ghosting down the edge. We looped ahead of them. Fergus laid out a beautiful cast; two strips later the line came tight and chaos ensued. I leapt from the rocks into the water ready to intercept, but the line went slack. Bitten clean through 1.5 metres of leader. The fish had found an awkward angle between teeth, pure bad luck. It would have easily gone 110+.

Meanwhile, Ollie’s group had found triggers and medium permit but couldn’t get a clean shot. That afternoon slowed, as it always does after a morning like that, but spirits remained high. When we regrouped, Ollie and Brian had been casting at a school of twenty-plus permit, all above 65 cm, classic permit behaviour, following the fly then fading away, hearts left hammering.

Days 4–6 – A Pattern Emerges

Over the next three days we fished four different islands. Each day brought permit sightings, sometimes schools of twenty to thirty fish strong, others singles ghosting over the flats. Four were convinced to eat, and two landed. Most were small - some we saw were six pounds, but numbers spoke of a healthy fishery.

Jens added another permit to his tally, Brian landed a lovely triggerfish on his “magic” pattern, a fly responsible for nearly 200 species and spirits were high. When a fly works that well, why throw anything else?

*[Photo: Brian’s triggerfish – proof his favourite fly still reigns supreme]*

Reflections

We wrapped up week one with broad smiles and blistered hands. Considering how little time we’d had on these flats, it was an undeniable success. We’d hooked two GTs easily over the metre mark, one pushing 120+, landed several smaller ones, three permit, a handful of grouper and triggerfish, even a shark.

The Axum Flats had proven themselves beyond expectation: a raw, complex, and exhilarating new fishery.

What lies ahead for week two? Stay tuned.

The Axum Flats – Exploratory Season 2025